POTATO CHOWDER LOTS OF WAYS

Makes 4 to 6 servings

A chowder so basic you can play it any which way and end up with a

satisfying soup. I call it a potato chowder because, well, it’s got potatoes, but

it might more aptly be called an allium chowder because it’s got so many

members of that tribe, including garlic, onions, leeks and shallots, which get

cooked into the chowder, and scallions and chives, which get added at the

end. If you have other family members at hand, maybe garlic scapes or

ramps, they’d fit right in. The soup is not very thick or very rich, but it’s

dense with vegetables and full of flavor. It’s also full of possibilities (see

Playing Around).

4 slices bacon or 2 tablespoons olive oil

2 leeks, white and light green parts only, split, rinsed, patted dry and thinly sliced

1 large onion, halved, thinly sliced, rinsed and patted dry

1 large shallot, halved, thinly sliced, rinsed and patted dry

2 garlic cloves, germ removed (see sidebar) and finely sliced

Fine sea salt

Pinch of sugar

5 cups (about 1¼ liters) chicken or vegetable broth

1 pound (454 grams) potatoes, preferably yellow, peeled and cut into bite-sized cubes

½ cup (120 ml) cream, half-and-half or whole milk (optional)

Freshly ground pepper

Toppings to mix and match

Sour cream or yogurt

Thinly sliced scallions

Snipped fresh chives

Chopped fresh parsley and/or cilantro

WOR K I NG A H E A D

You can make the soup a day ahead up to the point where you add the cream; reheat

and add the cream just before serving.

If you’re using bacon, lay the strips in a Dutch oven or large saucepan and

cook over medium-low heat, turning as needed, until cooked and crisp.

Transfer the strips to a plate lined with paper towels — leave 2 tablespoons

of fat in the pot — and cover with more paper towels; when the bacon is cool,

chop into bits and keep until serving. Or, if you’re going meatless, warm the

olive oil in the pot.

Add the leeks, onion, shallot and garlic to the pot and stir until coated

with fat or oil, then season with salt, add the sugar and reduce the heat to

low. Allow the vegetables to cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until soft

but not colored, about 20 minutes.

Pour in the broth, drop in the potatoes and bring the soup to a boil.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook at a steady simmer, uncovered,

until the potatoes are soft enough to break easily when prodded with a fork.

You can use a masher or the back of a big spoon to mash some of the

potatoes, to add another texture to the soup — an optional step, but one I

usually take. (You can make the soup a day ahead up to this point and

refrigerate it, covered.)

Just before serving, stir in the cream, half-and-half or milk, if you’re using

it, and heat through, without boiling. Taste for salt and pepper — I think the

soup tastes better with a generous amount of black pepper.

Ladle the soup out and, if you’d like, top each serving with a dollop of sour

cream or yogurt. Sprinkle with the bacon, if you have it, and, as you like,

scallions, chives and/or other herbs.

S TO R I N G : The soup can be kept in a covered container in the refrigerator for

up to 4 days. If you’ve added cream or milk, the soup may look a little

curdled when you reheat it, but it will still be tasty.

FALL AND WINTER VEGETABLE CHOWDER

Add cubes of butternut, acorn or Red Kuri squash to the soup either along

with the potatoes or in place of them. Or swap the yellow potatoes for sweet

potatoes. You could scatter shredded cheese — Gouda or sharp cheddar

would be good — on top of the soup or offer cubes of cheese for nibbling

alongside.

SPRING CHOWDER

In addition to the potatoes, drop in pieces of peeled asparagus, sweet peas

(frozen or fresh) and/or sugar snap or snow peas. If you’d like, finish with

chopped fresh tarragon and dill.

SUMMER CHOWDER

Keep the potatoes and add zucchini and/or lots of corn cut from the cob.

This version would be great with a little pesto drizzled over it and some

shards of Parmesan.

Playing Around

The chicken broth can be replaced by vegetable broth for a no-meat version.

You can easily add other vegetables as they come into season, and spices and

herbs are also welcome. Think fresh thyme or rosemary, sage or bay leaf, and

consider smoked paprika, harissa powder, Old Bay seasoning or herbes de

Provence.