STUFFED CABBAGE

Makes 6 to 8 servings

If you’ve never made stuffed cabbage, I urge you to stop everything and do it

now. Earthy and rustic, stuffed cabbage is beloved in many cultures, revered

in Europe and known to cause arguments among cooks who are convinced

that their recipe is superior to all others. My version, which mixes beef,

pork, rice and my mother-in-law’s long-secret addition, ketchup, is

idiosyncratic but one I’d argue for. Passionately. I make my stuffed cabbage

in bundles, the way I had it when I was growing up. It’s a nod to childhood

memories, but I do it this way partly because I enjoy the arts-and-crafts

nature of the project. That it makes the dish easier to serve and more

attractive is a bonus. For me, the sauce, both pungent and a little sweet, is

the prize: It’s built on tomatoes, sweetened with apple juice and spiked with

vinegar. The cabbage packets are layered between the sauce and a cushion of

grated apples, shredded onions and cabbage and braised for 3 hours — the

aromas draw everyone into the kitchen.

For the cabbage bundles

1 large head green cabbage — regular or Savoy

1½ pounds (680 grams) ground chuck

½ pound (227 grams) sausage meat — sweet, hot or a combination (or an equal

amount of ground chuck)

1 medium onion, finely chopped, rinsed and patted dry

2 shallots, finely chopped, rinsed and patted dry

2 garlic cloves, germ removed (see sidebar) and finely chopped

1½ teaspoons fine sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ cup (100 grams) basmati or other long-grain rice

Grated zest of 1 lemon

¼ cup (60 ml) ketchup

1½ tablespoons soy sauce

For the sauce and add-ins

Two 28-ounce (794-gram) cans whole tomatoes, with their juice

⅓ cup (80 ml) unsweetened apple juice

3 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 onion, sliced, rinsed and patted dry

1 apple, grated

WOR K I NG A H E A D

I like to make this a day ahead if I can. An overnight in the fridge gives you the chance

to easily spoon off and discard any fat, and it gives all the flavors a chance to deepen.

TO M A K E T H E C A B B AG E R O L L S : Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Meanwhile, pull off and discard any tough outer leaves from the cabbage.

Turn the cabbage upside down and, working carefully with a heavy knife, cut

out the core. I usually have to do this in increments — cutting out a divot and

then going back in to cut away more. Pull off the outer 18 or so leaves (the

largest on the head). Drop a couple of leaves at a time into the boiling water

and leave them there for a minute or two, just until they’re softened. Shake

off the excess water as you remove the leaves from the pot and then pat

them dry.

Working with one leaf at a time, spread it out on a cutting board, with the

outer part — the side where the thick center rib sticks up — facing up. Using

a paring knife or a strong vegetable peeler, cut or shave down the thick rib so

that it’s (kind of) even with the leaf and, most important, flexible — don’t

worry about being precise. Set the trimmed leaves aside; they’re the ones

you’ll stuff. Thinly slice the remaining cabbage — think thick-cut coleslaw —

and set aside for the sauce.

Put the ground chuck and sausage in a bowl, add all the remaining

ingredients and mix together as though you were making meatballs — be

thorough, but try not to knead or work the stuffing too much.

To construct the bundles, lay a cabbage leaf inner (cup) side up on a work

surface. Shape about ¼ cup of the stuffing into a little log. Place the log

horizontally across the cabbage, keeping it within the bottom third of the

leaf, and lift the bottom of the leaf up and against the meat — or over it, if

you have enough leaf. Fold the two sides over the log and then start rolling

the log up in the leaf until you get to the top. (Imagine that you’re making a

burrito and the cabbage leaf is the tortilla.) Make the roll as compact as you

can and secure the seam with a toothpick. Repeat with the remaining leaves

and stuffing.

TO M A K E T H E S A U C E A N D CO O K T H E B U N D L E S : Center a rack in the oven

and preheat it to 350 degrees F.

Open the cans of tomatoes and, using kitchen scissors and working in the

cans, snip the tomatoes into small pieces (alternatively, you can break them

up with your hands). Pour the tomatoes and juice into a large bowl and stir

in the apple juice, brown sugar, vinegar, salt and cayenne. In another bowl,

toss together the sliced onion, grated apple and reserved sliced cabbage.

Pour one third of the sauce into a large Dutch oven or a large ovenproof

sauté pan with a lid. Cover with half of the apple mixture and top with half of

the cabbage bundles. Repeat with half of the remaining apple mixture and

the rest of the cabbage bundles. Finish with a layer of the remaining sauce

and apple mixture. Cover with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit snugly

inside the pot and against the ingredients (or seal the top of the pot with

aluminum foil). Cover with the lid and slide the pot into the oven.

Let the stuffed cabbage cook undisturbed for 3 hours. Taste the sauce,

which will be thin, and add more sugar, vinegar, salt or cayenne if you think

it needs it. Then test a cabbage bundle to make certain that the rice is

tender. If it isn’t — unlikely, but . . . return the pot to the oven until it is.

The stuffed cabbage can be served now or cooled, refrigerated and

reheated when you’re ready — I think the flavors get even better after an

overnight rest.

S TO R I N G : You can keep leftover cabbage bundles and sauce in a covered

container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. The stuffed cabbage can be

frozen for up to 2 months packed in an airtight container. If frozen, gently

thaw before reheating in a covered pot.