MARINATED AND PAN-SEARED HANGER, SKIRT, FLANK OR TAKE-YOUR-PICK STEAK

Makes 2 to 4 servings, depending on the steak

The big flavors in this dish come from the dual-purpose marinade, which is

first used to flavor and tenderize the steak and then to sauce it. The

marinade itself is Asian-ish with ingredients that hold their own after

cooking. The base is soy and oil (the oil helps the marinade stick to the

meat), and the aromatics are ginger, garlic, lime, cilantro and Thai red curry

paste.

As for the steak, my favorite cut here is hanger steak, often referred to as a

butcher’s steak. Some people say it got its name because it was an

inexpensive, chewy cut that was hard to sell, so the butcher would take it

home. Others say that the butcher kept it because it was so delicious. I’m

happy with story number two.

There is just one hanger steak on a cow and so the cut is not very common.

If you find it, you’ll see that the grain runs somewhat the way it does in other

sinewy cuts like skirt or flank steak. Any of these would be great with this

marinade. And all of them can be cooked on an outdoor grill but, city girl at

heart, I reach for a stove-top grill pan or cast-iron skillet.

a word on the marinade

If you’re cooking a large steak or more than one, you may want to double the

marinade. Use what you need, and if there’s any that you didn’t pour over

the steak, refrigerate it and use it to marinate chicken cutlets.

For the marinade

1 teaspoon Thai red curry paste, or a tad more to taste

8 quarter-sized pieces peeled fresh ginger, minced

2 garlic cloves, germ removed (see sidebar) and minced, or more to taste

Pinch of sugar

½ cup (120 ml) soy sauce

¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil or neutral oil

Finely grated zest and juice of 2 large or 4 small limes

12 sprigs fresh cilantro, finely chopped (including the stems)

1 hanger steak, 1 flank steak or 2 skirt steaks

Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper

WOR K I NG A H E A D

You can marinate the meat overnight.

TO M A K E T H E M A R I N A D E : Put the curry paste in a small bowl, add the ginger,

garlic and sugar and mash together. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir

to blend. Divide the marinade in half; cover and refrigerate one portion.

Put the meat in a dish that holds it snugly and pour over the remaining

marinade. Rub it into both sides of the meat, cover the dish and let it sit at

room temperature for at least 1 hour. (The meat can be marinated at room

temperature for about an hour or in the refrigerator for as long as overnight.

Remove it from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before cooking.)

When you’re ready to cook, remove the meat from the marinade; discard

the marinade. Scrape off and discard whatever solids may be stuck to the

meat and pat the meat dry.

If you’re going to cook the steak(s) on an outdoor grill, I leave you to it. If

your grill or cast-iron pan needs it, spray it with cooking spray, then place it

over high heat. When the pan is hot, slip in the meat — if you’re cooking 2

steaks, don’t crowd them — and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, depending on the

thickness. (A flank steak will cook faster than a skirt or hanger — it may need

just 2 minutes on a side.) Flip the steak(s) over and cook until done just as

you like. To see how it’s doing, cut into the meat and take a peek,

remembering that it will continue to cook a bit after it comes off the heat.

Transfer the meat to dinner plates or a cutting board, season with salt and

pepper and let sit for a few minutes.

Meanwhile, bring the refrigerated marinade almost to a boil in a

microwave oven or in a saucepan on the stove.

Cut the steak(s) into portions or slices, spoon the “sauce” over the meat

and serve.

S TO R I N G : Leftovers, which make great sandwiches and salads, will keep for

up to 3 days wrapped in the refrigerator.