HOLIDAY FISH SOUP

Makes 6 servings

This substantial fish soup turns toward Asia for its inspiration, fragrance

and flavor. The broth gets its vivacity from a usual aromatic trio of scallions,

shallot and garlic, and a less usual one of lemongrass, ginger and yuzu kosho.

It gets its depth from the mix of fish that’s poached in it. I like to use mussels

— nothing gives you a more flavorful base for fish; cod (or another firmfleshed

white fish, such as halibut or monkfish); and shrimp. The soup

becomes even more beautiful once you add mushrooms, scallions, sweet

potatoes and a scattering of cilantro leaves or seaweed flakes.

The dish takes its name from the fact that I often make it for our lots-ofpeople-

around-the-table holiday dinners in Paris. It’s perfect for a

celebration — it’s elegant, good-looking, delicious and very easy to make,

even for a crowd (the recipe multiplies easily). Make the broth in advance

and have the fish and vegetables ready to go, and when it’s time, you’ll have

just a few minutes of kitchen work ahead of you.

INGREDIENTS

For the broth

1 tablespoon olive oil

6 scallions, white and light green parts only, sliced paper-thin

3 garlic cloves, germ removed (see sidebar)

1 large shallot, thinly sliced, rinsed and patted dry

1 stalk lemongrass, tender inner bulb only, very thinly sliced

One 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and very thinly sliced

1 sliver of chile pepper

A thin strip of lime zest

Fine sea salt

1 teaspoon red yuzu kosho

¼ cup (60 ml) white wine or dry vermouth

5 cups (1¼ liters) chicken, fish or vegetable broth

Pinch of sugar

For the fish and vegetables

24 mussels, scrubbed and debearded if necessary

1½ pounds (680 grams) skinless cod fillet or other firm-fleshed white fish fillet (see

headnote), cut into 6 portions

24 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

6 large head-on shrimp, unpeeled (optional)

6 scallions, white and light green parts only, cut into 3 pieces each

2 large white or brown mushrooms, such as cremini, wiped clean, trimmed and thinly

sliced (preferably with a mandoline)

1 shallot, very thinly sliced, rinsed and patted dry

½ sweet potato (cut crosswise), peeled, cut lengthwise in half and thinly sliced

(preferably with a mandoline)

A handful of baby spinach

Fine sea salt, to taste

For serving

1 lime, halved

Chopped fresh cilantro and/or dried seaweed flakes or furikake

WOR K I NG A H E A D

You can make the broth ahead and keep it covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days

or freeze it for up to 1 month.

RECIPE PREPARATION

TO M A K E T H E B R OT H : Warm the oil in a Dutch oven or heavy soup pot over

medium-low heat. Add the scallions, garlic, shallot, lemongrass, ginger, chile

and lime zest, stirring to coat the ingredients with oil. Season with a pinch of

salt and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is softened and

fragrant. Add the yuzu kosho and cook, stirring and mashing, until the paste

is evenly mixed into the aromatics. Pour in the wine, raise the heat and cook,

stirring, until it just about evaporates, a minute or two. Add the broth and

bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer, cover the pot and cook for

20 minutes.

Taste the broth for salt and add the sugar. Strain into a bowl or pitcher

and discard the solids; return the broth to the pot. (You can make the broth

up to 3 days ahead and keep it covered in the refrigerator or freeze it for up to 1

month.)

TO M A K E T H E F I S H A N D V E G E TA B L E S : Bring the broth to a light boil, lower

the heat so that it simmers and drop in the mussels. Cover the pot and cook

for 2 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and cook, uncovered, for 3

minutes or so more, until the shrimp are pink, the fish is cooked through

and the mussels have opened (discard any that don’t). Remove the pot from

the burner.

Divide the fish and vegetables among six shallow soup plates and ladle

over the broth — there will be more fish than broth in each bowl. Give each

portion a squeeze of lime juice and a sprinkling of cilantro and/or seaweed

or furikake. Serve immediately.