POKE TO PLAY AROUND WITH

Makes 4 servings

I’m absolutely positive that this poke (pronounced “poke-ay,” meaning

literally “to cut or slice” in Hawaiian) is not traditional in Hawaii, the dish’s

homeland, but I’m not ready to call it inauthentic. Poke, like ceviche, has

been riffed on by so many that the only real imperative is that it be

extremely tasty.

At its most simple, poke is usually chunks of raw tuna briefly marinated

with soy and sesame oil. It’s not a fancy dish — more like a snack you’d eat

when you’re wearing flip-flops — and it’s not a dish with rigorous rules.

These days, though, the tuna might be replaced by another type of seafood,

tofu or vegetables; the marinade might include just about every spice and

hot sauce from around the globe; and the add-ins might be salad greens,

onions, avocados, mangoes, tomatoes or whatever else is good with fish and

bold seasoning.

I’m so crazy about this sweet-salty-hot marinade that I also use it as a

dressing for coleslaw, kale and apple salad, beets (I love beet poke) and raw

cauliflower. And because it and the fish are versatile, I have fun choosing the

add-ins. When summer’s the season and the heat and humidity are high, you

can’t beat poke with very cold watermelon.

I know you’re going to have fun with this recipe. Actually, the only

“recipe” is for the marinade — the rest is up to you.

For the marinade

2 tablespoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce) or other soy sauce

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

¾ to 1½ teaspoons Sriracha (to taste)

½ teaspoon oyster sauce

½ teaspoon unseasoned rice vinegar

1 pound (454 grams) very cold thick-cut sushi-grade tuna or salmon

Add-ins to pick and choose from

1 teaspoon sesame seeds, white and/or black

Sliced jalapeños or serrano chiles

Diced bell pepper

Sliced scallions

Chopped onions (rinsed in cold water and patted dry)

Slivered garlic

Halved cherry tomatoes

Cubed mango

Cashews, macadamias or peanuts

Broken nori (briefly pan-toasted, or not)

Go-alongs to pick and choose from

Strong salad greens, like mizuna, kale or arugula

Coleslaw

Roasted beet cubes

Cold watermelon cubes

WOR K I NG A H E A D

You can make the marinade up to 3 days ahead and keep it covered in the refrigerator.

You can also marinate the tuna or salmon for as long as 3 hours.

TO M A K E T H E M A R I N A D E : Put all the ingredients in a jar, c

over and shake

well to blend. (The marinade can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 3

days.)

TO M A R I N AT E T H E F I S H : Cut the tuna or salmon into bite-sized cubes and

toss them into a bowl. Pour the marinade over, stir to coat the fish, cover

and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or for up to 3 hours, stirring

occasionally.

If you’re using the sesame seeds or any of the add-ins, stir them into the

poke just before serving. If you’re using one of the go-alongs, place on a plate

and top with the poke, or mix everything together.

S TO R I N G : You can marinate the tuna or salmon for longer than 3 hours, but

its texture will soften. Once the poke is on the table, it’s best to polish it off,

since it won’t really keep after that.